Hawaii Holidays - Motorhome Magazine March 2000

You're planning your next vacation, but there's trouble in paradise. You want to enjoy the soft tradewinds of Hawaii, but your spouse is a dedicated motorhomer. Does this mean separate vacations?

Not any more. Now you can visit every beach and cove on the Big Island in the comfort of a 22-foot Class C motorhome with the same bells and whistles that you enjoy on the mainland. It's the best of both worlds.

Just ask John and Linda Cameron and their 3-year old son, Gordon, of Southern California. This young family is dedicated to surfing, swimming, snorkeling and RVing. For the Camerons, a motorhome tour of the Big Island was a dream come true.

Their bags packed with snorkeling gear, swimsuits, boogie boards and Gordon's life jacket, they boarded an airplane bound for a week of unparalleled fun in the sun that more than lived up to their expectations.

They were met at the Kona airport by Clark Carr, the enthusiastic proprietor of Island RV Safari Activities, who whisked them to their rental Fleetwood Tioga motorhome, filled with fuel, water and propane. After a briefing about the vehicle and suggestions on where to go, they went to the market to stock up on food. Everything else they needed was already on board: linens, kitchen utensils, a barbecue grill, a lantern, chairs, beach mats and folding tables. Less than two hours after landing, they were headed for their new adventure.

Following a picnic on the beach, the Camerons aimed the Tioga toward South Point, the southern-most shore in the United States. Just to the east of the point is Green Sand (Mahana) Beach, which can be reached only by a four-wheel-drive vehicle or on foot. Deposits of olivine, mixed with black sand, have created a beach that actually is green. Most of the the 4 1/2-mile round-trip hike is across a grassy field and lava rocks, but getting to the beach requires scrambling down a moderate cliff.

Back on the road that circles the island, the Camerons followed the signs to Punaluu Black Sand Beach. They found a suitable place to park the rig, and after dinner the bedded down, listening to the waves rolling in on the gentle slope of the shore.

The following day dawned bright and beautiful. The glistening black sand, created by eons of ocean waves attacking the lava, beckoned the family to take an early-morning walk. What a treat was in store for them! Basking in the sun was a green sea turtle. They knew not to touch it, but plenty of photos later, the turtle slowly made its way back tot the water and swam away.

Their next stop was the Big Island's most visited location, Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. First, they stopped at the Kilauea Visitor Center, which has excellent displays and films of the volcanic activity that continues to this day. After a tasty buffet at Volcano House, they set off to explore 11-mile Crater Rim Drive, which circles the massive caldera. They passed through a tropical rain forest, emerging into the desolation left by volcanic eruptions.

The well-marked road provides access to many of the geological features resulting from eons of volcanic activity. The trail to the Thurston Lava Tube, which was formed by the crusting of the fast-flowing pahoehoe lava, is through a dense fern forest. Even a light rain didn't dampen the trio's spirits. Veteran travelers, they had brought hooded windbreakers, a must when visiting the wet side of the Big Island. (These also came in handy during the evenings, since the elevation of the park is 4,000 feet.)

As the Camerons continued on the loop road, they found ample parking for the motorhome at every designated stop. They saw craters, steam vents and sulphur banks and walked through a 1959 lava flow on the Devastation Trail.

The most significant stop on the loop road is Halemaumau Crater. While the surface of the crusted lava is now about 300 feet below the rim, there have been times when it was 1,335 feet below the rim, and other times when it overflows. Sulphur fumes make visitors aware that this is a geologically active area.

At their last stop on the loop, the Jagger Museum Hawaii Volcano Observatory, John and Linda learned that scientists constantly monitor the movement of the lava and will evacuate any are if activity is anticipated. The view from the museum balcony is one of total devastation, yet the lush tropical growth covering much of the island grew from such a beginning.

After stopping at the Volcano House to arrange to use the campground showers later that evening, the Camerons drove down the Chain of Craters Road, stopping at all of the interpretive sites along the 20-mile descent to the ocean.

One stop, the Puu Loa Petroglyph Trail, involves a 1 1/2 mile trek over lava rocks to see petroglyphs left by ancient Hawaiians. Cairns (small piles of rocks) mark the trail. Another worthwhile stop is the Holei Sea Arch, which juts out into the ocean.

It's easy to know when you have reached the end of the road; it's where the lava covered the road on its way to the ocean. Beneath the lava are parks, sacred sites, subdivisions, magnificent beaches and the village of Kalapana, all victims of a lava flow that began on Februrary 3, 1983. Since that date, eight miles of Chain of Craters Road has been inundated.

No two visits to this part of the island are the same. At one time, visitors could stand only a few feet from the lava as it poured into the ocean, creating new land. But the lava flow is sometimes inaccessible, or can be reached only by a long and treacherous walk over lava flows. Fortuante are the visitors who see the ribbons of lava pouring over the cliff.

The lava had stopped flowing only days before the Camersons arrived, but they were told that the glow from the lava might be visible from the end of Chain of Craters Road. While waiting for darkness, John and Linda prepared dinner in the motorhome. They were rewarded with a spectacular sight. In the dark of night, the glow from the lava that had settled into the crater reflected off the clouds that hovered above it. It was a message from Madam Pele, the fire goddess of Hawaii, that she has not finished unleashing her fury on the Big Island.

The southeastern corner of the island is not heavily visited by tourists. It is a long drive from Kona, but well worth it, and a motorhome is one of the best ways to see it.

Making their way along the southeastern shore, the Camerons found themselves on very narrow roads. The locals were quite accommodating, pulling to the side of the road to allow the motorhome to pass. The indescribable beauty of the area made the slow going worthwhile.

Searching for a place to spend the night, John and Linda followed road signs to Isaac Hale Beach Park. At first glance, they wondered if it would be a suitable camping place. The parking area was jammed with fishing boats that would go out to sea very early the next morning, and surfers were catching as many waves as they could before sunset.

Soon, however, the parking lot was totally vacant except for their Tioga, and the family settled down for yet another night of bliss, as the churning ocean crashed against the rocks only a few feet away.

As expected, the surers were back soon after sunrise, and the fishermen were coming ashore with their catches. Many stopped for a friendly chat. Later, the Camerons agreed that this was definitely one of the highlights of their week on the Big Island.

After breakfast, they drove to Ahalanui, a lovely park that is popular with the locals, but isn't mentioned in many guidebooks. After walking through a grove of palm trees, they came to a gigantic spring-and-ocean-fed swimming pool that had been built with lava rocks.

When the pool was built many decades ago, the spring that feeds it produced icy-cold water, but after the Kapoho eruption of 1960 reworked the natural plumbing of the spring, the water changed to a warm 90 degrees F. The setting was so idyllic that is looked almost too good to be real.

After changing into dry clothes, the travelers returned to the main road, which led them to Lava Tree Park. During a massive flow in 1790, the lava surrounded the damp ohia trees, forming a crust around them. As the molten lava flowed away, the trees burned, leaving behind hollow tubes of solidified lava. Today, the vegetation, dominated by gigantic monkeypod trees, has once again taken over the landscape.

When the Camerons reached Hilo, it was time to replenish their supplies, but not before enjoying a picnic at a park downtown. Nearby was a saltwater inlet that meandered through the park. It was another picture-postcard setting.

One more stop that day was at 420-foot-high Akaka Falls, one of the most-visited places on the Hilo side of the island. Because of heavy rainfall, the two waterfalls along the trail usually run full as they tumble down sheer cliffs. The path leading to the falls wanders through a dense forest of bamboo and other tropical growth.

That evening found the Camerons parked on a grassy knoll at Laupahoehoe Beach Park. It was here, in 1946, that 21 children and three adults were drowned by a tsunami triggered by an earthquake in faraway Alaska. A monument honors those who were lost on that fateful day.

Since this was about the midway point on the Camerons' tour of the island, they took advantage of the freshwater supply and indulged in longer showers. To the amusement of some locals, Gordon enjoyed the motorhome's outdoor shower. One of the fisherman fashioned a fishing pole for Gordon from a tree branch, some line and a hook, which was carefully stored for later use.

With a full tank of fresh water, the family ventured on to the north-eastern part of the island. The road from Waimea to Hawi is narrow, steep and winding, but negotiable in a motorhome.

Hawi is a rather remote village visited by tourists who want to see the statue of King Kamehameha the Great and the magnificent Pololu Valley Lookout at the end of the road. Late afternoon is an ideal time to arrive at the overlook. Parking is limited with little space for turning around, but the Camerons were able to maneuver the motorhome. For the ambitious, there is a path leading to the beach 400 feet below. (Before setting out, be sure there is time to return before dark; it takes about 20 minutes each way.)

Many photos later, the Camerons made their way just a few miles farther to Keokea Beach park, their destination for the night. Once again, tey found it beyond their expectations. A pavilion on top of a knoll provided an exquisite place to watch the late-afternoon surfers and view the sunset.

Eager to try out his fishing pole, Gordon led his dad down to the rocks to dip their line. Just as the sun was setting, John was starled to note there was tension on the line. Gordon had snagged a squirming eel. Needless to say, this brought squeals of delight from the youngster on his first fishing expedition.

John and Linda had made reservations for a kayak ride through the ditches, flumes and tunnels that were built to transport water to plantations on the dry side of the island. Although kayakers will get wet, this is not a white-water ride. (However, Gordon did not go along.) Experienced guides explain how the water-way was constructed at the turn of the century, and describe the flore and fauna visible from the flume. This attraction is unlike anything else in the state of Hawaii.

The Camerons' next stop was Mauna Kea Beach. To reach the public beach, it is necessary to go through the gate of the luxurious Manua Kea Hotel. The attendant was reluctant to admit the motorhome, claiming that the roads were narrow and parking was limited. But he let John try his luck, and the coach was parked with no problems. A short trail leads to a sugar-fine white-sand beach.

The Camerons spent their last night in the motorhome at Spencer Beach park, where they were entertained by the Hawaiian security officer and his friends, singing traditional island songs at sunset.

After packing up their gear, John, Linda and Gordon returned to Kona. But their vacation wasn't quite over. Island RV's rental package includes a night at the Royal Kona. While Linda did some last-minute shopping, Gordon wanted to try his hand at fishing in front of the hotel. To John's amazement, his son caught two fish, which they released.

The Camerons' last meal was in the Royal Kona's waterfront dining room with melodic Hawaiian music playing. As they watched the sunset, the waves splashed to the top of the seawall beside their table. It was a perfect ending to a perfect trip.

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